“I’m not so hungry — it’s fairly early, isn’t it?” Deborah Levy says, eyeing the menu cautiously. It’s the form of line that Lunching journalists dread, and I’m ready to really feel greater than just a little disenchanted — correctly put out, in actual fact — if the 2 of us find yourself choosing over a bowl of salted almonds. In any case, Levy’s books are stuffed with vivid descriptions of meals, from the juicy oranges of her South African childhood to the lime ice lollies she feeds her dying mom, as detailed in her semi-fictionalised autobiography, to not point out the surreal symbolism in her novels: rotting eggs, sugar mice, melting goodies swarming with ants.

“Are they?” she says, sounding just a little nonplussed by my remark. However she’s quickly main a contented dialogue of biltong and boerewors, and admitting that meals is an efficient method to faucet into “reminiscence, to feelings, to class, to tradition”. My impression of Levy, 63, having glimpsed her from afar at publishing events, is of a formidable character. Up shut, wearing a pine-green ruched silk shirt, she isn’t any much less intimidating: her hair is pinned up excessive, her voice is soft-focused however intense and her gaze regular.

This regular gaze has been used to highly effective impact. Over the previous 20 years — throughout which period she has produced novels alongside three volumes of “dwelling autobiography”: Issues I Don’t Need to Know, The Price of Residing and Actual Property — Levy’s unflinching outlook on the world has come to symbolize, for a lot of girls particularly, an exciting expression of creative freedom. And her affect has had a galvanising impact on younger writers — its attain going some method to explaining the inclusion of a clutch of feminine autofiction authors on Granta’s newest record of Better of Younger British Novelists.

My novels are novels of concepts, and I’ve to embody these concepts, in any other case it’s only a pamphlet

We meet simply after noon at Rochelle Canteen in London’s East Finish, as spring birdsong mingles with the decision to prayer from the close by Shoreditch Mosque. “I’m an enormous admirer of [the co-patron and chef] Margot Henderson,” Levy says, explaining her selection of restaurant. “Her meals may be very easy however superbly cooked.” The decor right here is briskly institutional with neat tables, small picket chairs and features of coat pegs on whitewashed partitions — the constructing was previously a college bike shed — however Henderson is well-known for her culinary largesse.

Time to order drinks: Levy heads straight for a Negroni, so I comply with go well with and, because the waitress recedes, Levy leans ahead, out of the blue beaming and conspiratorial. “Laura, you’re such enjoyable — I’m more than happy you’ve come on board for the Negroni!” In her wonderful cookbook You’re All Invited, Henderson describes the impact of this potent cocktail on a celebration crowd because the “Negroni roar”. Maybe (I enable myself to surprise) the Negroni whisper will probably be simply as enjoyable. 

Levy’s new novel August Blue, which is revealed subsequent week, is about a 12 months or so into the Covid pandemic. It follows a virtuoso pianist named Elsa M Anderson as she flits throughout Europe after a efficiency of Rachmaninoff’s Second Piano Concerto in Vienna goes horribly improper. Stalking her each transfer, by means of the streets of Athens, London and Paris, is her unnamed alter ego.

“I’d at all times been desirous about doubles and the doppelganger in Gothic literature, after which, transferring on a bit, Dostoevsky wrote a brief story referred to as The Double, Borges wrote in regards to the double . . . ” Levy says. “And there’s a painter referred to as — we could simply look this up?” She pulls out her iPhone — “Augustus Leopold Egg; isn’t that an awesome identify” — to indicate me his 1862 portray “The Travelling Companions”, of two practically equivalent girls seated in a practice, the spark behind the ebook.

“If Elsa is feeling fragile and her double is immensely courageous, these two elements of her cut up self might be in dialog with one another . . . We normally affiliate that with being loopy or one thing and I wished to keep away from that,” Levy explains. “So I believed: how can we converse to ourselves? I started to know how I used to be going to make use of the double. It was going to be a voice, a sort of chorus, which might voice [Elsa’s] extra awkward, extra humiliating ideas.” I ask if she thinks of this as a very feminine expertise. “Everybody has it, it’s simply that masculinity at its most performative needs to disregard that awkward inside voice.” 

The waitress reappears for our meals order. Deliberating over sweetbreads, I point out that somebody as soon as described them to me as like consuming clouds. “Was that John Keats?” She laughs heartily. “Go for it, as a result of then we are able to see if the clouds work out.”

Levy herself loves a seafood simile: in her writing, sea urchins are “like consuming the reproductive organs of an alien”; scallops are “like consuming the human earlobe”; consuming oysters is . . . truly I’m unsure we are able to print this one. And now we’ve our starters, she describes hers assiduously: “OK, so my crab is actually scrumptious — would you like a style? It’s acquired the salty monk’s beard [a samphire-like vegetable], then the smoky tang of tomatoes, however I’d like some bread.” Mine is a well-dressed, if slightly wholesome tasting, salad of uncooked white cabbage dotted with brown shrimp and chopped chervil.

I wish to know extra about Levy’s selection of the Rachmaninoff concerto, greatest referred to as the roiling soundtrack to David Lean’s 1945 movie Temporary Encounter, which underpins August Blue. “I made a decision on the Rach as a result of it’s simply accessible to readers in the event that they’re ,” she says. However the musical backdrop to this novel is rooted in Levy’s expertise of immersing herself within the classical repertoire through the Covid pandemic. “Oh, it was such a saving grace to take heed to that language — a wordless language as properly — [when] we have been on our information feeds on a regular basis. So many individuals dying. Simply to don’t have any phrases. So I believe I listened to every little thing Chopin has ever written.”

With the arrival of our principal programs — John Dory, with laverbread sauce (comprised of seaweed) for Levy, and my sweetbreads — we order two glasses of Sicilian white wine and a facet of hispi cabbage to go along with the fish. “So that is Monsieur John Dory!” Levy says, tucking in.

The daughter of two anti-apartheid activists, Levy was born in Johannesburg in 1959 and spent her early childhood in segregated South Africa. As a younger baby, she says, she would fake she didn’t know learn, “as a result of the horror of with the ability to learn at an early age in South Africa was that you’d learn indicators like ‘this bench is reserved for whites solely’ . . . and also you see what apartheid and white supremacy are providing you”. Her father, Norman Levy, a lecturer and educational of Jewish heritage, whose mother and father emigrated from Lithuania, had been placed on trial together with Nelson Mandela for communist actions within the late Nineteen Fifties; in 1964 he was arrested once more and imprisoned for the subsequent 4 years. 

His absence had a traumatising impact on the household and, as she recounts in Issues I Don’t Need to Know, coincided with a interval the place Levy stopped talking exterior the house. “[I had] overwhelming emotions, and the best way to assist your self cope is simply to not converse, or not very a lot,” she says. As an alternative, with the encouragement of a trainer, she began tentatively to redirect these emotions into writing.

The eating room is now in full swing, and Levy and I are struggling to listen to ourselves above the clanging and scorching coming from the open kitchen, our braying neighbours and the sound of heavy rain and thunder claps exterior. “How are the clouds?” she asks. The sweetbreads are combined in a scrumptious gravy with salty bacon, child broad beans and mint. Levy declares her John Dory “excellent — it has a bitter creamy, lemony sauce and the flesh is tender and actually delicate”.

I ask, given her mother and father’ instance, and her clear admiration for George Orwell (her memoir challenge was initially impressed by his 1946 essay “Why I Write”), if she considers her personal writing a political act. “My novels are novels of concepts, and I’ve to embody these concepts, in any other case it’s only a pamphlet. So, how do you embody concepts about all types of issues? I’ve these avatars, characters, who in a method or one other, dramatise arguments and opinions — though ‘opinions’ is just not fairly proper — ‘values’, might that be a greater phrase?

“The books I wish to write are influenced by all types of societal actions and moments, but in addition the Surrealists, Freud, the pure world . . . it’s OK in my books to carry three contradictory concepts — that is actually essential to me . . . I don’t suppose artwork is there to clarify away complexities, clarify away contradiction, clarify away enigma.”

The success of Levy’s final three novels — Swimming Residence (an unsettling drama set in a villa on the French Riviera), Scorching Milk (described by the author as “a thriller about hypochondria”) and The Man Who Noticed All the pieces (a time-bending love story set across the fall of the Berlin Wall) — has introduced her talent in capturing the turmoil and absurdity of on a regular basis life and the intricacies of male-female energy dynamics to a mainstream readership.

After Norman’s launch from jail in 1968, the Levys left South Africa for London, and the younger Deborah discovered herself adjusting to teenage life within the UK. Whereas working as an usher at a cinema in Notting Hill, she met the film-maker Derek Jarman (“He simply noticed this 18-year-old making the popcorn, giving out the Marine ices, tearing the tickets. He was so cultured and pleasant and ”) and, on his suggestion, she utilized for an interdisciplinary diploma at Dartington Faculty of Arts, a transfer that led to her theatre work. Of her Nineteen Eighties performs, Levy is most happy with Pax (1984), a convoluted epic primarily based on 4 feminine characters who embody elements of Twentieth-century Europe. “What follows is just not at all times clear,” famous the FT’s overview on the time, “ . . . [but] a lot of Deborah Levy’s narrative may be very humorous.”

There are a lot of magnificent books that haven’t received prizes so greatest to know one’s personal sense of literary function, and to maintain swimming

By the tip of that decade, she says, “I simply wished to roll up my sleeves and start to determine long-form prose”, however she tells me excitedly that she is about to begin writing her first play for years, though she stays tight-lipped on the main points.

A tempting pudding menu is put earlier than us. “We now have to, don’t we?” Levy says. Properly, I’m not going to argue, however I’ll additionally want an espresso if I’ve any hope of working this afternoon. Levy can have one too. 

Given her vary and imaginative ambition it’s outstanding, I say, that her books are so compact — averaging about 200 pages, though August Blue is barely longer. “I write fairly tight novels, and people are what I wish to learn, though I do like Proust,” Levy says. “It is likely to be good to place a bookmark on the web page and say ‘I shall return to this epic work in per week’s time’. However sadly, I very hardly ever do.”

We’re offered with two huge bowlfuls, mine containing a frightening mound of rhubarb idiot — extra clouds — and Levy’s a wodge of yellow lemon sponge surrounded by a double-cream moat. “I’m going to strive it,” she says, earlier than issuing her verdict: “Tart, in simply the precise means, with this delicate aromatic sponge, fairly old school . . . ”

I press Levy on future initiatives — particularly, if she has plans for a fourth quantity of memoirs. Her transferring reflections on her adolescence, her expertise of motherhood and divorce, and her Woolfian quest for a house of her personal following the dissolution of the household home have attracted an nearly cultish following. “I’ve at all times stated no however the different day I did discover myself making notes, so I do have some ideas, towards my will.” There’s additionally a household cookbook within the works. “My daughters requested if I might make a ebook devoted to them of among the issues I cook dinner. And I used to be fairly freaked out. As a result of, I believed, ‘they suppose I’m going to die’,” she laughs. “Now, in fact, in between all the opposite work I do, this looks as if probably the most urgent fee.” 

Then there are the vaguer plans: a need to go to Ingmar Bergman’s island off Sweden the place she may write and indulge her love of swimming. Swimming pools seem as touchstones of types by means of Levy’s work, from the Hampstead ponds in her north London stomping floor, to the Piscine Joséphine Baker in Paris, the place she rents a studio and now spends a lot of her time — and one other that gives a spotlight for the motion in Swimming Residence. “I don’t like that sort of swimming the place there are two of you, heads up, doing breaststroke,” she says. “I need my head down, my goggles on . . . I nonetheless do handstands within the water.”

She leads me down extra conversational rabbit holes — a Google seek for the etymology of John Dory; the affect of William James on Jack Kerouac; a non-fiction ebook she is writing about Gertrude Stein, the nice mental and artwork collector of interwar Paris, to be titled Mama of Dada — as our puddings defeat us. However exactly two hours after first sitting down, Levy broadcasts that she should depart, and begins to assemble her belongings.

After pleasant goodbyes, I scan my pocket book with a rising sense of panic in any respect the wise questions I’ve didn’t ask. Later, realising we by no means mentioned the Booker, for which she has been nominated thrice, I e mail her: “Prizes, and particularly the Booker, usually assist carry books to the eye of extra readers. Hooray to that,” she replies. “[But] there are lots of magnificent books that haven’t received prizes so greatest, actually, to know one’s personal sense of literary function, and to maintain swimming.” However maybe “wise” was by no means going to chop it anyway. 

Levy, like her books, shows an invigorating disregard for conference, for predictability, for concrete decision. In the course of the previous couple of hours she has challenged and delighted, she has supplied her personal, inimitable perspective on the world — and now her 200 pages are up.

Laura Battle is the FT’s deputy books editor

Discover out about our newest tales first — comply with @ftweekend on Twitter